The journey of an amateur seamstress on a mission to create an 1890s gown.

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Dress Construction!! Bodice and Skirt


Finally!  I'm actually working on the dress itself!  
First, there was a bit of a detour in fabricland since I couldn't find what I really wanted.  Apparently blue is just not in this year--it was impossible to find.  I did locate something that might have worked, but I would have had to order online and hope it was good, and at $70+ a yard, I figured I'd better pass.  So after one last-ditch trip to Joanne's, I did find some upholstery fabric that will work.  Out with the blue and gold color scheme, and in with the green and creme!
Dress form adjusted for corset and ready to rock

I needed to start drafting a pattern for the bodice.  Thankfully, a lot of the bodice is covered by other pieces, so this seemed like a great place to start.  The original body block/slope was for completely different measurements than the corset, but did have my correct armscye (I think I must have ape-like arms).  The corset pattern also had a lot of the correct shaping.  Therefore, I figured combining the two would at least give me a good place to start.
Original body block + corset pattern = new pattern
I had quite a bit of correcting to do from the first attempt (which I expected with such a random mash-up approach!).  I was glad I'd spent time figuring out how all this worked--it was much easier to snip, pin, move, and add darts than my first try at drafting a pattern.
Corrected pattern pieces out of muslin
Pretty new paper pattern all cut out and ready to go
I did add an additional piece along the front closure so I have a bit more strength when it comes to adding the boning, grommets, and lacing.  Oh yeah, I am out of grommets and only have a setting kit for 3/8th inchers.  Now I need to go get more grommet toys...

Not trusting my dress form entirely, I figured I'd better just try it on myself.  The front closure is just pinned together, but I think this will work!  Day 1 is a success.
 Next up, the skirt.  I started with just a big loop of fabric the correct circumference at the floor with a couple extra inches length on the back to allow for the bustle.  Then I used the dress form (named Dorcas) to drape and get the waist just right.


One side is all done--look how much extra fabric I removed by using darts instead of gathering (and that's just on one side)!  

Inside-out checking the fit one more time.  Reminds me of a nine-gore skirt.

Skirt is ready!  Right-hand pocket access is being planned in since I ALWAYS wish I had a pocket, but am usually too lazy to put them in.

Front is fairly narrow and drops straight down with little flare.
Shape of inspiration dress

Back is full of darts with one box pleat at the center to allow for lots of bustle room.
Back to the sewing table!

No comments:

Post a Comment