The journey of an amateur seamstress on a mission to create an 1890s gown.

Friday, August 1, 2014

A Few Final Pictures!

I am still hoping to take some more official photos at Riverside's gardens, but I'm not sure when that will happen.  So until then, here is the final product!



Still angry with the 'Christmas present bow'










Sunday, June 8, 2014

Corsets aren't as bad as you think.

I know, that sounds like the opposite of the corset stereotype:  ladies pass out constantly, all your internal organs get destroyed, breaking ribs, holding on to the bedpost to get them laced tightly enough, etc.  Sure, wearing a corset is not quite as nice as some of our more modern alternatives, but considering that we still have Spanks and other shapewear, I think we might want to take a better look at what it is like to wear a corset.  One of the most surprising things I have learned about historic fashion is that it isn't as bad as we've been led to believe.  That's not to say that I intend to cast off all modern garmentry (I love my sweatpants), but it seems there's a lot of misinformation about corsets in particular.

I wanted to demonstrate how much flexibility I have while wearing a corset, specifically a heavily boned, tightly laced one.  'Heavily boned' is referring to the 30 pieces of spiral spring steel boning that run from the top to the bottom.  Whale boning is no longer available, and wasn't really 'bone' anyway--corsets used baleen, that long, reed-like stuff you see in Finding Nemo when they are inside the whale's mouth.  There is also a metal 'busk' which fastens at the front sort of like heavy duty little buttons and buttonholes that are all attached to each other (some busks were one solid piece, fashion changes over time and with improved technology/manufacturing options).  I pulled the laces as tight as they go; I usually wear this corset with just a little bit of space for more give.

So how do you show the range of motion in a corset?  Here's the strangest photo-shoot idea I've ever had:  me doing yoga while wearing a corset.  I doubt this will become a popular trend.
I opted to wear only the corset--not the rest of the traditional undergarments--so you can see it better.  Also, I didn't want my bottom making any surprise appearances as the drawers are split in the crotch to make it easier to go to the bathroom.
I chose positions (asanas) that you would think a corset would make impossible, or at least overly difficult.  Anything requiring a straight back is a non-event in a corset, as the corset is intended to maintain that position.  Therefore, I wasn't trying to do every asana, just a few that would demonstrate how the corset behaves when you move.
A straight back is what the corset likes.
It starts to get a bit more difficult, but still do-able, when you add in any hinging or twisting movements.




You can bend and the corset will give.  No ribs were broken in the making of this picture.

 Ustrasana (Camel Pose) can be difficult to breath in normally, but is still possible in a corset, without any dramatic passing out.









Shoulder movement is less impeded in a strapless corset as compared to a modern bra.

Tightly Laced

This right here was uncomfortable.  I felt bad for my poor corset and all the torture I was putting it through.  

Look at how much give the corset has--that is a pretty wild curve.






Whew!  All done for today.  There were many other asanas to choose from, so this collection is far from complete.  
 The only pose I tried that was truly impossible was Svarga Dvidasana (Bird of Paradise) as I couldn't get into the bind.  I have a little trouble getting my hands together normally, and with the corset I couldn't quite reach.
Here's how you do Bird of Paradise--I couldn't do Step 3 (coming into it from Warrior), which means I couldn't move on to attempt Step 4 (I can't do Step 5 even on a good day!).

 People's first reaction is often 'how awful!' when you tell them you are wearing a corset under your historic clothing.  However, it really isn't that terrible.  Different, but not awful.  The historically accurate corset is actually MUCH better than the modern version I had to wear under my wedding dress--some things have not improved with time!  I also appreciate that my corset is fully flossed (embroidery to control the steel boning and keep it from twisting in the channel or poking out) as opposed to the modern underwires that frequently rub through their channel and escape.  Modern bra manufacturers should take a few tips from history if they want to start making quality products.


Tuesday, May 6, 2014

FINALLY DONE (ish)

All the parts are constructed and complete, although I am sure I will make adjustments and changes once I get a chance to wear it around for a while.  I am going to have to do some sort of additional lining on the bodice wherever the lace attaches as it is stiff and therefore scratchy.  I do wish ever so much that I could have found nice lace to use on the project, but the beaded netting lace has at least worked out acceptably aesthetically.
I enjoyed absolutely no part of finishing this dress--I was sick and tired of this project long ago, but am glad I powered through and got it done.  I may not like exactly all of it, but at least I have something wearable.  I'm sure it will look better in the morning.  Several mornings from now after I haven't worked on it for a while...
I really don't like the current version of the back bow--way too much like a Christmas present!  I will have to think about this part and come up with a better solution later.

I made the shoulder bows smaller than the original dress, partially because I don't really like bows and mostly because the ribbon I had was not the right width and I had no more left.  I am not in love with these, so I might decide to remove them altogether later.  I didn't entirely care for them in the inspiration dress either, but it does seem to need some kind of transition between the sleeve and the bodice.

I changed the design of the sleeve a bit.  This was also largely due to a lack of material (using the very last little bitty scraps), still not a big bow fan, and I wanted it to coordinate with the button details on the skirt.  This seemed like a nice way to tie them together.

Final front!  

Left side!  It looks a lot better in the daylight...I will be taking better pictures later!

Back--yeah, that bow has got to be improved.